Michelin-star chef behind Oakville’s Hexagon strives for excellence

There’s no higher honour in the culinary world than recognition from the Michelin Guide. A star from the world’s most prestigious reviewer can set a chef and a restaurant on the course toward greatness.

For Oakville’s Hexagon restaurant and head chef Rafael Covarrubias, there was twice as much to celebrate when this year’s award winners were revealed.

Hexagon was awarded a coveted star, while Covarrubias was named the Toronto 2024 Young Chef Award Winner.

“Ya, it’s been a pretty busy time,” admitted the 29-year-old when he spoke with INhalton.com. “When you put it all together like that, it’s a lot.”

This missing piece in the ‘it’s a lot’ comment is the restaurant’s sous chef, Victoria Rinsma, who will be competing in the Canadian finals of the San Pellegrino Young Chef Academy.

“It’s been very busy around here,” said Covarrubias, describing the challenge of enjoying the accolades while keeping the restaurant running at a world-class level.

“I’m so proud of the team we’ve built here. Victoria is a wonderful chef. It’s always just been a matter of time until she stepped into the spotlight. We’re always trying to find ways we can stay on top of our craft.”

Striving for excellence is what brought the Mexican-born Covarrubias to Canada in the first place.

“I grew up around food. It seemed like everyone in my family was either a great cook or a professional chef, especially on my mom’s side.”

Covarrubias said that even when he was little, he always wanted to be in the kitchen because “that’s where all the cool kids in the family were.” He remembers that no matter what the occasion—Christmas, birthdays, New Year’s Eve—dinner was always the main attraction.

He started working in a kitchen when he was 15, spending so much time there that his school work started to tail off. But his mind was made up.

“I got a taste for excellence, and I wanted to push myself. I knew I could never achieve that without challenges, so I moved to Canada when I was 17. Staying at home would have been too easy.”

He attended culinary school in Calgary and was recruited to Ontario shortly afterwards.

It was only a couple of months after Hexagon opened in Oakville that he was promoted to head chef. His focus there has been developing talent, although he’s just 29 himself.

“I remember someone telling me that a real leader creates leaders, not followers. And that’s what I want for my team.”

Like any chef aspiring to greatness, Covarrubias knew he wanted a Michelin star. However, the program was only introduced to Canada three years ago, and for the first two years, it was limited to a couple of cities.

Of the 25 restaurants in the country with a star, 13 are in Toronto and nine in Vancouver. Hexagon is one of the other three, along with establishments in Creemore and Lincoln.

“We sent in our information to be reviewed when we first found out Michelin was coming to Canada, but we knew we weren’t eligible the first two years. Early this year, we were asked to supply some basic information, but we never heard anything after that. Receiving the star was truly a surprise. We honestly didn’t even know we’d been reviewed.”

So what’s next for Covarrubias and his team?

“The challenge now is to get Hexagon to an established level of excellence and keep creating the next generation of great chefs. We can start working towards a second Michelin star, keep people ambitious and motivated. But it’s also nice to enjoy the recognition we’ve been receiving.”

Hexagon is located at 210 Lakeshore Rd. E. in downtown Oakville.